Here comes colorful, raucous Carnaval
Here comes colorful, raucous Carnaval
Monday, February 1, 2010
It’s a whopper of a street party – colorful, crowded, raucous and entertaining. Some find the general chaos and rowdiness of this annual event overwhelming. But fans of the six-day festival relish the music, the Carnaval games, the people-watching, the food and the festivities. The theme of this year’s Carnaval is “Alegría Bicentenaria,” celebrating Mexico’s 200 years of independence. Here’s a summary of events for Carnaval La Paz 2010.
PARADES: There are parades Sunday (Feb. 14), Monday (Feb. 15) and Tuesday (Feb. 16), starting at about 5 p.m. The route follows the Malecón, between Márquez de León and el Molinito (the little windmill at the north end of town, on the Malecón at Ejido). You’ll see the same floats and participants each day, but the parade switches direction. It begins at Márquez de León Feb. 14 and 16; it begins at el Molinito Feb. 15.
OPENING NIGHT: Feb. 11, the first night of Carnaval, the “embodiment of a bad mood” gets burned in effigy in the Quema del Mal Humor. There’s a trial first on the esplanade of the Malecón. With the costumes and theatrical soap opera, you’ll likely be entertained even if you don’t know Spanish. The defendant is different each year. Two years ago, the economy got torched – La Paz Carnaval organizers were ahead of the rest of the world. Come see who the villain is this year. There will be live entertainment on the Malecón at the foot of 16 de Septiembre starting at 5 p.m. The show really gets going after 8 p.m., with a dance performance, the Quema de Mal Humor and coronations of the King of Happiness and the Queen of Young People. At 10 p.m., opening night’s featured entertainer is Mara Escalante (more details on her below). At 11 p.m., you can dance to Banda Sinaloense music.
LIVE MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT: Live performances start at about 5 p.m. and the action gets livelier as the evening goes on. At 11 p.m. nightly (about midnight Friday), you can dance to Banda Sinaloense music. Bandstands are set up along the Malecón, but the main stage is in the open area near the kiosk at the foot of 16 de Septiembre. There are featured entertainers every night at about 10 p.m. (details below). The performances are free, so be prepared for crowds. Here’s some background on the performers, gathered from information on the Web:
Feb. 11: Mara Escalante
This standup comedian, actress and singer starred in the Televisa sitcom Maria de Todos Los Angeles. She lives in Veracruz and works in Mexico City. To sample her zany humor on YouTube, try one of her spoofs on the 2008 Olympics at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XITbu5EnVo&feature=related “Nancy Aerobics - Cheapy Pump.”
Feb. 12: Los Pikadientes de Caborca
Los Pikadientes de Caborca are a Mexican musical group whose debut single, "La Cumbia del Río," charted on the Billboard Hot Latin Tracks in 2008.
The group began as a YouTube sensation, with many users posting viral videos of themselves dancing to the hit. How to describe their sound? Start with Norteña meets klezmer. Get a taste by seeing their YouTube video of the hit at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMHUVhDtVDQ&feature=related
Feb. 13: Rozenda Bernal
Bernal is one of the younger pop-ranchera singers, but she has all the high-octane mix of sentimentality and power that makes U.S. commercial country music seem wimpish. The arrangements, too, rework older Mexican styles. Sample her music on YouTube in a Mexico City performance of “Mi Linda Nayarit” at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJdFYbm1uJg&feature=related
Feb. 14: Jesse & Joy
This young Mexican pop duo are brother and sister: Jesse Huerta and Joy Huerta. You can hear them on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObSTSjp25fM
Feb. 15: Los Huizapoles
This popular pair of folk-musician comedians from El Centenario are well known for their razor-sharp Paceño humor and light-hearted guitar tunes. There’s lots of them on YouTube, including the radio studio visit with them at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdqO_6nP3ZE&feature=related
Feb. 16: Panteón Rococó
Panteón Rococó blends several styles of popular music such as rock, punk, salsa, cumbia, mariachi, reggae, ska, and also mestizo-music into a energetic, groovy sound. Some of their lyrics contain political statements, but others are love-songs.
Check them out on YouTube with the music video 'Vendedora de Caricias' (seller of caresses) at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P341W77b9hY
GRAND FANCY-DRESS BALL: The Gran Baile is at the Modelo Center, Abasolo between Sinaloa and Nayarit, at 10 p.m. Tuesday, Feb. 16. For tickets and information, contact Cultura Municipal (city cultural branch) at 123-7900, extension 1260. Cost is 200 pesos, including dinner and a drink. Come in disguise.
WHAT ABOUT THE KIDS: Children have their own Carnaval with a parade, disguise contest and entertainment Sunday, Feb. 28. Of course, there are rides and activities for children throughout the regular Carnaval, too. On Saturday, Feb. 13, at 10 a.m., the Children’s King and Queen are crowned; at 10:30 a.m. Saturday, there’s a performance for children at the kiosk of the Malecón. Children’s Carnaval activities Feb. 28 are listed on the Events page.
JOSTLE YOUR WAY DOWN THE MALECÓN: There’s lots to see, to buy and to eat. Here are some recommendations from Canadian friends. Try your hand at the horse-racing game, where you throw one ball after another to propel your tiny metal horse down a track. (A friend who last year won a stuffed Bugs Bunny, a Sylvester and a frog, says, “Just keep throwing – it’s quantity, not quality.”) For 10 pesos a try, the patter of the commentator alone is worth it. Get mesmerized by the blanket auctioneers: their blanket-flinging antics and rapid-fire spiel and hyperventilating will leave you breathless. And don’t forget the churros , those deep-fried excrusions of donut coated in sugar and cinnamon . If you’re lucky, you might get to crank the churro-making machine.
MORE ABOUT CARNAVAL: Police will be providing plenty of security, but anytime you mix big crowds, late nights and booze, you want to keep your wits about you. Take care with your wallet and camera. For a good background article on the festival, go to Baja Insider at http://www.bajainsider.com/baja-life/events/carnival/carnival-la-paz.htm — there you’ll also find a detailed schedule of events in English.